According to “Deipnosophistis”, an important figure of Greek gastronomic literature, every cuisine has two sources: a rural and a “scholarly”.
Rural, folk cuisine is domestic, agricultural, and inextricably linked to its land. It is defined by austerity of expressive means and is passed on from generation to generation through the unconscious channels of imitation and habit.
“Scholarly”, cosmopolitan cuisine evolves in societies of great economic prosperity. It is characterized by creativity and originality resulting from the ceaseless exploration of gastronomic pleasures. It progresses through the work of professional chefs. It constantly explores new ingredients, and it borrows or invents techniques.
During Ettore Botrini’s childhood, the workers of Corfu smoked herring, a ‘fish of the mountain’, in newspapers in order to preserve it for a long time. They enjoyed it with other humble ingredients such as cornbread and wild greens they found in the countryside. This dish is an embodiment of the above-mentioned theory: an application of the coupling of rural and “scholarly” cuisine.
Deipnosophistis, Deipnosophistis, 1991